Tourism in Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is such a beautiful place, a tourist spot visited by everyone who makes it to the north of Viet Nam . Tourism here has created tons of jobs and business opportunities for the locals. The unique landscape which is probably taken for granted by them, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I often wonder what it means for Halong Bay to be on this list, if anything. I’ve been reading some of the documents on their website and it states that Halong Bay has “geological and geomorphologic value” and that it “requires protection for all of humanity.” On my latest trip, I’ve been convinced that tourism is having a deep impact on the environment there.

Most people visit Halong Bay to see the rock formations and caves as well as to have a relaxing holiday after a year or period of work. I some times go to Ha Long Bay with friends for one night, two days and just love it. I love kayaking around the beautiful calm water, through the caves, and onto little beaches. It’s awesome but of course, the only way to get out onto the bay is by motorised boat. On my trip recently, I noticed fifty or more boats. Each of them is carrying a dozen or so tourists on most days of the year. The bay is being polluted by petrol and oil which can be clearly seen on the surface of the water in parts. Nowadays, there are so many tour operators working in Ha Long Bay with the same itineraries, meaning hundreds of people are stopping and travelling through the same waters and caves. I’ve seen people flicking cigarette butts into the water and leave plastic bags and bottles lying around. It makes me sad and angry.

The other problem is over-fishing, another industry which provides employment and a livelihood for the families who actually live floating on the water. A seafood meal aboard one of the boats is a highlight for visitors, of course.

There are lots of problems to solve but the decisions have effects that will be far-reaching. Someone needs to do something about the pollution and the amount of tourism even though it provides work for the local labor force. Tourists numbers rose from 200,000 in 1995 to 1,700,000 in 2002. This year the number is higher. It will only grow more in the future.

If Halong Bay is still worth visiting.

Amazing Experience In Ha Long Bay

After a long morning filming with Tom and Rob, the boat stopped at Ti Top island for us to climb up the hill for the an amazing view of Ha Long Bay. Even though it had started raining, we decided to stop nearby the island for swimming. We swam for a while and the rain was getting heavier and heavier but we wanted to go kayaking. We were the only four people kayaking in the whole wide area under the heavy rain, thunder and lightning. It was really scary for me at the beginning but the others were so excited. We returned to the boat after 30 minutes paddling around before the two tour guides told us that they wanted to show us some amazing caves that not many people go through.

We kayaked behind them for about 20 minutes to two really deep and low caves with tiny entrances that you have to lay in the boat to get into. Bats were flying around and luckily the guides gave us the torches so we could see. We were scared but we wanted to go through and we did. We missed the last cave because too many bats were flying around and Tom was a bit nervous.

When I'm at home and I hear a storm I always close the doors and sit inside. But I loved swimming in the rain, seeing the lightning and hearing the thunder right on top of my head. Kayaking on Halong Bay is a great experience.

Food In Ha Long Bay

During my work with the crew filming about food in Viet Nam I had the chance to meet some interesting people in the fishing villages and talk to them. Yes, they are very friendly and very sweet. I met the mayor of Cua Van fishing village and we filmed him fishing in the bay. I also met his and his relatives and talked to them about why they're living here and what's the main reason to keep them here in the middle of nowhere for generations. They told me they just love being here in Ha Long Bay, they love the ocean and they love fishing. Fishing also is the only skill that they have to bring in income and daily food.

The fishermen cook their fish broth in a different way with lots of herbs, a bit of stir fried and lots of water. My mother and my sister cook fish broth alot and I just love their cooking , especially their broth which is a bit sweet from the fish, a bit sour from the herbs and a little bit salty from the fish sauce. It's a really great combination, a simple dish eaten with rice dipping the fish in fish sauce with some chilli, garlic and maybe some MSG. It's quite easy to do at home.

Kids In Ha Long Bay

Kids in Ha Long Bay are so beautiful, they look really healthy with dark skin and a ready smile. Lots of kids in Ha Long Bay actually do business during the day and I wonder when they go to school. They paddle small floating baskets toward the big tourist boats trying to sell some snail shells, food and drink and also use their small baskets to take tourists around into the villages and visiting caves.

I talked to a few kids in my most recent trip back there and the number of kids who go to school is only a small percentage. Their living standards are so low that they have to help their parents earn money. Don't be surprised if you see lots of very young kids controlling their basket-boats very well or swimming very fast because they've really got used to it. This is what they do almost everyday and it's also a part of their life.

Some kids are really agressive if you don't buy from them and they will keep asking you to buy from them. It's a bit like Hoi An and Sapa when you take photos of then they expect you to buy something from them or give them some money. I usually take photos, talk to them a bit then give them some small money or get in their baskets for a ride around the bay.

Anyway, personaly I think kids should be at home, and going to school, not hanging around trying to earn money while they are still so young. They are the future of the country and I wonder if they see their own future floating around in a basket.

Back To Ha Long Bay

I went back to Halong Bay for one night and two days as I was invited to be involved in some filming for an American TV show called Diary of a Foodie. I had such a great time working and relaxing, meeting new people, and enjoying the great bay view.

We arrived in Ha Long City at about 11 am after picking up the crew at Noi Bai airport. Rob and Tom, the producers and cameramen for the show, seemed very happy to be here in the north after almost a week in the south filming about Vietnamese food. I spent lots of time taking hundreds of photos of people, boats and scenery.

I just love this gorgous place plus the great seafood that the tour company supplied on the boat. We had huge fish, big prawns, lots of big crabs, yummy scollops, fresh and tasty squid and of course some over-priced Chilean and Australian wines. Sorry but I love white wine and I can drink lots of it especially when I am on holiday :).

Laying on the roof of the boat with a glass of chilled wine, talking to friends about life, about the beauty of Ha Long Bay is a great way to release stress, don't you think? You can't expect anything more than that.

To be continued

Ha Long Bay Part II

I was really surprised about the motivation of small business operators here.There are a few girls in small boats hanging around very early in the morning, at about 5am, trying to sell all kinds of stuff, from rice wine to chewing gum or vegetables but all really expensive. From what I've seen and heard the people here are so nice and friendly. They are calm and always smiling. Maybe they are do that for their business but at least they know how to smile.

The boat stopped at a fishing village for whoever wanted to buy fresh seafood or check out the fishing lifestyle. There are many floating houses located nearby and they have constructed lots of floating nets to keep the seafood in for selling. I bought some crabs and some prawns to bring home for a meal. I realized that it is more expensive than in Hanoi but I think the quality is better. Maybe I don't know how to bargain or that's the price for ocean service.

I understand that people can live in all kinds of conditions, but I don't think I could live in the middle of nowhere for my whole life. People who live in this area seem very happy with their life. I saw quite a few guys and girls dyeing their hair with different colors and by the way they were talking, it seems that nothing can affect their life and they do really enjoy their life. They earn quite a lot of money from their seafood business and they go to Hai Phong twice per week. They have all of the latest entertainment such as DVDs and the latest music. The local children have their own school. They have a pretty good life with whatever they want.

Vega travel is a very well organized tour company, and this tour was well worth what I paid. The tour guide was good, the boat and the bus were clean and driven well, and the bed was very comfortable and clean. I think this is my high recommendation for whoever comes to Vietnam and wants a good tour agency. Vega travel: 24 Hang Bac- Ha Noi - Viet Nam -Tel: (84-4)9262092- Fax(84-4) 9260910 - Email: vegatravel@fpt.vn or go to their website: http://www.vega-travel.com/.

Sorry about no posts but my work has been busy and I had some time away for the Independence day holiday.

Ha Long Bay Part I

I took a two day, one night boat trip to Ha Long Bay with Vega Travel this week for a short break. Halong Bay is such an amazing place for a quiet and relaxing time, to get away from the motorbike horn, the shouting and the job stress. It is no wonder that this is one of the world natural heritage sites. Here is my story.

The tour company picked me up from my house then we headed to Ha Long Bay, the trip taking us about three hours. The weather wasn't too good in the morning but it got better and the sun came out finally. I loved sunbathing on the top roof, and I took heaps of pictures and enjoyed drinking wine and cold beer. I took a small group trip with only eleven other people, a few from Spain, England and Viet Nam. The food was good on board the boat, we were served seafood, of course, and spring rolls, soup and salad and they also prepared a special menu for vegetarians as well.

We went to what they call 'Surprising Cave' at first and this is a real wonder with an amazing cave with light and interesting rock formations. "Do you know what makes women happy?" asked my tour guide. Look at the picture below and you will get the answer :)

After the cave, we went to Ti Top island where the boat stopped for awhile for us to climb up to the top of the hill which has an amazing view of Ha Long Bay. We left Ti Top to go kayaking nearby and swimming. This was the first time I'd ever tried kayaking and it was great. We swam until about six in the evening when we had dinner. I was a bit drunk at about eight after finishing off my wine and a few beers. I went to bed early but I woke up early the next day to catch the sun rise,at 5.30 in the morning. It was so quiet, nothing much happening around, just the boat engine going sometimes on and off. Sitting on the top of the boat in that peaceful atmosphere made me feel life is so nice and I just forget about the busy stress of normal life.

To be continued...