Toys to Eat

I remember very well these flour toys because they belong to my childhood. When I was a little boy and I used to see many old people making these beautifully shaped toys to sell in front of my school and in the market. During my years at elementary school and maybe secondary school, the sellers were always around but they seemed to disappear when I went to high school. Maybe I grew too old to notice them?

I hadn't seen them for such a long time until last week in front of the Ethnology museum. I was really nicely surprised, and it brought back a lot of fond memories from my school days. Because I took quite a few photos, I bought several toys from the seller above but I didn't eat them like I used to do when I was a little boy. I remembered when we finished our classes, we usually bought at least one everyday and asked our mothers to put them on the top of the cooked rice for about 15 minutes then we used to eat them. They didn't have much flavour but that's the way we did at that time.

The man told me he spends less than 10 minutes making each one. They all look gorgeous, colorful and only 5000Vnd. If you ever see this man, buy some to help him out. Nice thing to keep even though it's another dust collector :)

Street Vendors

Street businesses are a unique part of Vietnamese culture. In the past, street businesses were a common way for poor people to earn an income and this is the same today. However, the local authorities in Hanoi are making it hard for street vendors to trade these days.

I think one of the reasons is there are too many people who come to Hanoi to do the same thing and sell the same stuff. Lots of people are selling hats, books, fruits, flowers, postcards and t-shirt on the streets, following tourists from one place to another to sell their things. It's not always pleasant and tourists can't enjoy their walking tour because they constantly have to refuse politely from these aggressive sellers. Lots of sellers I've talked said that if they don't hassle people they don't sell anything and they go home empty handed.

Two weeks ago, while I was eating duck eggs from a girl on the street, she suddenly ran away with her basket. A xe om called out that the police were on their way. If these sellers get caught, they lose their stuff and receive a fine. It's funny to watch the vendors rush away quickly when the police arrive. But everything's back to normal when the police men are gone. Eventually, the duck egg lady comes back and I finished my snack :) These sellers could be really good 100m athletes.

Street vendors are a part of our culture and, even though they are a nuisance sometimes, they should be allowed to remain trading in the streets. Maybe the government should introduce a license to restrict their numbers though?

Craft Toys

Walking between Truc Bach Lake and West Lake in today's freezing weather of Hanoi was a bit of a shock. It's a bit early for winter! The weather was only around 17 degrees, drizzly and high in humidity that makes you feel really cold. I walked down to the Truc Bach supermarket to buy some stuff for my dinner and I also stopped by the man at the corner who makes craft toys.

After I bought a toy grasshopper, I asked if I could take some photos of his products. He told me that it takes five minutes to finish a grasshopper and about ten minutes for a heart, and a bit more than that for a phoenix. He makes them look amazing with just a few coconut leaves. This is quite a popular business between the two lakes. Lots of guys but them for their girlfriends and parnets also for their children.

Almost every single person looked at me on the way home because I was holding a toy coconut grass hopper. Maybe I am too old to play with these things? :)

Where's The Beauty Of The Old Quarter

When talking about Hanoi, people mention the beauty of the 36 classic streets with 1000 years of history. Located between Returned Sword Lake and Long Bien Bridge, these streets start with the word Hang, which means merchandise or shop, and its named for a product or service. No matter how tall and skinny a building is in the old quarter, it seems that there is always room for one more storey. This is real Viet Nam can't be seen anywhere else in the world.

Nowadays, people use its beauty and history to do business. You can hardly walk on the pavement because people are using it for their own business and motorbike parking on the street which is not very good or safe for visitors. Street police wander around shouting loudly to whoever leaves their motorbike in the wrong place. All these things can make Hanoi difficult to live in at times.

There are big markets in Hanoi but also there are thousands of people from the countryside also doing their own business by putting their stuff on bicycles or walking with stuff on their shoulders or even on their heads. The police try to stop this kind of trading constantly but it still happens and looks like it will never stop. But actually, this is the only way they can earn some money for themselves and send it home to help their family. It's also fun to watch sometimes, but sometimes, it's annoying because they keep asking tourists to buy from them or take photos then by some fruit from them which is not really nice.

Any corner can be a small market where a few people sit next to each other, selling few flowers, pets or even just some candies. Where are all the traditional streets which sell their own products? There are not many of them still around such as Hang Ma streets or Lan Ong street where you can smell the Chinese medicine. Why don't Vietnamese try to preserve the beauty of our great traditions and history?

Hanoi's Pavement

The pavement is for walking and parking in some places but if you come to Viet Nam, the pavement is a place for people to do business even it's illegal.

Wandering around Hanoi from morning till evening, you can try all types of good cheap food. Pho- noodle soup with chicken, beef or with organs, sweets, fruit and others along the streets of the old quarter or from people walking around. Both are great. I always eat at Lang Ong street where they sell best street noodle soup.

Coffee on the pavement is the most popular in Hanoi and customers sit on small low plastic chairs or wooden chairs and they use those small chairs as tables. These places are also the most popular places in Hanoi to hear all the lastest news, gossip or even the secret news from elsewhere in the world but do not trust what you hear with 100% accuracy.

The pavement is not only for parking and walking, but it is a place for car washing, pumping and selling petrol. You can also have a hair-do.

Unfortunately, the pavement is also a public toilet where people stop for a quick pee. Even people who drive a very expensive car or ladies who sell fruit on the street and sometimes parents help their baby to have a pee.

The pavement and middle of the street become one especially in the peak hours when people drive their motorbikes and bicycles like crazy on the pavement and pedestrians have to walk in the middle of the street instead of walking along the pavement.

In the evenings the pavement is a public park for lovers, young or old, a whisper for afew minutes then they go away together. The pavement is also a five star hotel for the homeless and beggars, giving them somewhere to dream about their future. If you walk around on hot days you can see lots of people sleeping along the pavements after lunch.

Markets on the pavement are also common where lots of small stalls of vegetables or some people just selling a few pieces of vegetable. Second hand clothes also very popular and can be seen along the streets where the sellers hang their stuff against the wall.

Anyway, that's just some examples about the crazy stuff that happens everyday in Hanoi. Even though the police try to stop them by giving fines, they are not very effective. And when someone shouts out loud that the police are coming, you will see so many people running up and down, running around trying to hide all of their stuff inside a house or up an alley before running away from thepolice. BUT the situation will return to the same when the police are gone. This is a very funny incident to watch, I promise!

Newspaper Boy

I have been intrigued by this boy for a few months but this morning was the first time I talked to him. He normally doesn't want to talk to other people about himself or his family. He is a disabled boy who can't walk at all. He sits on a bicycle, using his hands to pedal and control the bike. He started his newspaper business 8 years ago which means when he was 10. He doesn't look like 18 at all, a very baby face with a good smile that makes people think he loves to be alive and happy with what he had and has now.

He starts his day at 6am and ends up at about 10pm, hopefully with no newspapers left. It's difficult to imagine how hard such a life must be, all day using his small hands to pedal around for thewhole day to earn a small income? Around Hanoi in small lanes and big streets, he cycles to earn about 30,oooVnd a day. A good thing about him is that he tries his best even though he is not in the best physical condition and lots of people try to help him by buying his magazines.

I see lots of boys and girls who hang around, doing nothing, putting their hands out to their parents for money. Lots of people don't want to work to earn money, even though they are strong and there are thousands of jobs waiting for them. They are some who prefer to act sick or pretend they have a really urgent family problem to get sympathy and money.

This boy should be an example to them all.

Pavement Pounders - Saigon II

Laying on the sofa right next to the window at my sister’s house I heard so many people walking past trying to sell their stuff from sticky paper to catch rats to tropical fruit like durian. My daily snack or desert while I was there was Agar which only costs 1000Vnd and the lady’s very friendly. She also sells creme caramel. She told me that she earns 50,000Vnd everyday by selling those sweets, having started her business 5 years ago. She starts at 8am and continues until she's sold everything, walking through every alley trying to finish her day as early as possible.

Every time she came around, I couldn't resist. I just have to buy one, sometimes two or three!

Xich Lo

I am not a big fan of the Xich Lo because I feel a bit mean sitting there looking around while there is an old man using all his energy to pedal the thing.

While walking along the street on my recent trip to Saigon, I was starting to feel exhausted when an old Chinese man rode past and asked if he could show me around. I refused twice but I then agreed after he told me that he would take me to a very good Hu Tiu(noodle soup-Chinese style). I talked to him about a variety of things, about the city and the people. The xich lo driver also told me about himself and how his income fluctuates everyday but remains low compared to other jobs. This is really hard work and the charge is usually dependent on the distance.

Nowaday, most people who use the Xich Lo are from the older generation or they are kids. Young adults prefer to go by bike or taxi for speed and convenience which is opposite to the old folk who care more about safety and a relaxing ride. Some people use Xich Lo to take their children to school. I think I might use Xich Lo more often because I can see things happening during my trip and also using them will preserve one of the traditional trades and customs in Viet Nam.

A Better Life?

Coming to big cities wishing for a new, better life is a common dream for countryside people in Viet Nam. If you follow my blog, you would have seen lots of different stories about pavement pounders. It's difficult to imagine how hard these people have to work for just a small amount of money. Of course there are some luckier people who find a good job with a reasonable income but this percentage is very low and it requires that they have some special talents or are well educated but it still depends on luck as well.

I have spoken to lots of different people before writing this. I went to see where they live, in tiny rooms of about 10 square meters, smelly and dirty where about 15 people stay over night. They pay about 5000Vnd for a night and I can't really imagine what it's like in the winter or in a rainy season. It probably floods or it'd be really damp, cold and stinky.

Even though they tolerate such bad living conditions, people don't seem to care and they still come to the city. In their minds, they honestly think that a wonderful life in a beautiful city is possible regardless of the risks involved. A simple theft of their daily money could ruin their life.

Bread In Town

"Hot bread here" is a very popular announcement from the bread sellers which can be heard all day, from about 5 am til late at night.

There was an old lady who used to sell bread around our old apartment in the Cao Ba Quat street area,who had a man's voice which was very distinct and that's why I always bought bread from her. Her voice used to wake me up in the mornings. In our new place here in West Lake, I see lots of people selling bread but they ride a bicycle. They charge the same price and it's important to ask for fresh bread like mine this morning, which I bought at 6 am. I asked the lady to throw them up to me on the second floor and I threw the money back down to her. I was a bit lazy and still sleepy but I was glad that I made it to buy the fresh bread to write about this today. Writing about the bread while smelling it so fresh makes me feel so good.

You can see lots of people walking around with a big basket full of bread on their head or sitting on the pavement trying to sell bread. This is one of the most common forms of walking business in Hanoi but it seems easier than others because bread is not as heavy and if the sellers can't sell all of them they can give them back to the bakery, which isn't a bad deal.

I don't really know how much they earn per day. I tried to ask several sellers but they weren't interested in telling me the truth, but I guess they earn about 20,000Vnd to 40,000Vnd per day which is not too bad compared to hard labour which earns about the same income. Most of the sellers are old ladies, old men or young girls who are from the countryside around Hanoi.

Pavement Pounders

As in other cities in Viet Nam, Ho Chi Minh City also has so many walking vendors around the place, their calls and signs attracting trade.

While driving along the street on a hot day, stopping on the side of the road and asking for a soft drink, coconut juice or tea would be a good idea.

Hungry and wanna try some sticky rice with different meats or sausages? How about some dried onion? Why not?

Fruit is here, cheap and good, come on !!!

Durian, great smell, good price, try before you buy, no good, no buy !!!!

Hot homemade pancakes, 1000Vnd for one. Try now before sold out!!!!

Fresh fruit is the most common form of street business in Ho Chi Minh City. The fruit is ready to eat straight away and looks very clean.

I always try the street snacks and fruits, they are great and cheap. I think you guys should try all of these thing if you are ever in Viet Nam. Highly recommended!

Pavement Pounders (Part 10)

Đánh giầy is my story today. This is a strange story of the street perhaps doesn't happen in other countries.

For 2000Vnd, you can have your shoes cleaned and they look like new shoes. There are lots of little boys doing this business, wandering around with a box or a plastic bag and some shoe-laces hanging from the top of the box. Most of them are from the countryside trying to avoid farming work, school or for family reasons. However, there are some boys who are from the city trying to earn some money for their study or for some reason or another.

Chết Cả Đây

The monotonous announcements from lots of little boys, girls and old people running along streets everynight from 7.15Pm to 9Pm are the sounds of the lottery results. It's like a buzzer alarm for the many people who are going to lose their fortune that night.

When the results are posted, you'll see lots of people standing in front of the lottery company almost blocking Hang Bai street. They all have a hard luck story about how they should have won or how close they were to winning.

Pavement Pounders (Part 9)

Another day, another story!

The travelling florist is my story today. This is a really hard business not because of the physical work but because of the long hours involved. These flower sellers have go to the flower market to buy flowers between 12 Am and 4 Am then return home to arrange them for sale. They start selling at around 6 Am till they've sold out. Their income for a long day is about 40,000Vnd.

To be continued

Pavement Pounders (Part 8)

Hanoi sees lots of people selling newspapers and lottery tickets everywhere, around coffee shops, restaurants and markets. Their announcement would be like: "Báo mới, báo mới đây"- "New news paper here", and sometimes they record their own voice on the tape and simply play it over and over. Occasionally, they give some hot news which belongs the magazine to attract the readers. This is an easy job, if you like walking, but is not well-paid.

They earn from 20,000 to 50,000Vnd per day depending on the weather, how much hot news there is that day and the lucky numbers they have on their tickets. Lots of older people try to do this job instead of selling flowers or fruit which is better financially.

To be continued

Pavement Pounders (Part 7)

If you ever want a job that is hard work with shit pay, become a Street Porter. I have talked to quite a few men and women in this job and I can't believe that they do so much for so little money. They carry hundreds of kgs of different things everyday from water cans, rice bags, TVs and fridges to fruits from one place to another. Sometimes they might have to pay to their customers if they break the item they're carrying.

Having limited experience and education blocks their progress in life. They risk their life for small and instant money which could help their family and themselves and for the next generation. It's no wonder that many people who do this job develop physical problems which can affect the quality of life of their children as well.

To be continued

Pavement Pounders (Part 6)

Vases, bowls, cups, and glasses are all available on Lê Văn Hưu, Yết Kiêu and Nguyễn Du Street areas even though you can also see these mobile businesses in many other places in Hanoi. This is the most difficult for the buyer who doesn't have any experience. I have made some mistakes before so I know what it's like.

It's hard to see the defects when you buy ceramics on the street, including the plates and vases I bought. They looked really good but after we used them twice, we could see the stains around the centre of the plates and the cracks underneath the vases. This is because it wasn't fired enough in the kiln causing it to crack by itself following the changing of the weather.

You need to bargain quite hard, sometimes as much as a third of the price.

To be continued