Athens, Kalimera

My dream has came true and I am now in Athens, Greece. A country with history and holy stories. Athens nowadays is such a modern city with a great public transportation system. There are so many options for tourists to choose from local bus to MRT.... Every single day I found a new thing in this city and I have learned alot.

One of the funniest things was that my first breakfast in Athens was vanilla ice cream. Do you believe that? I couldn't believe that I ate ice cream either.

It's a bit like our trip in general, actually. We didn't make any plans for it, we have just been going with the flow and everyday is a surprise. Athens...the ruins...the lifestyle....it's all a surprise for someone from Vietnam.

Anyway, on our first night we stayed at Marble House, a small pension hotel close to the public transport system and a short walk to Athen's main attraction, the Acropolis. It was in a really quiet neighbourhood. The lady who welcomed us was a Greek American and she told us all the information about Athens and what we needed to do. After checking in, we walked up to the amazing Acropolis but the weather was a bit stormy and wet so we decided to come back the next day. We also arranged to meet Angeliki, my friend's friend from Athens.

I think I'm in love this city. There are so many things to check out and the food is so good but one thing that I need to be concerned about is things are expensive here and they use Euro, not Dong like in Vietnam:) I need to calm down to everything because I have 4 and a half weeks to go. I hope I can check out everything and show everyone about it

Tobe continued

Our Friend In AThens

I don't want to talk about Athens at the beginning my trip as I want to talk about Greek people. I think Greek people, in general, are not really over welcoming to tourists unless they know you well or you speak a little Greek. Plus, as one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, they are quite complacent about tourists, which is understandable. But in this post, I want to talk about a women that I met in Athens who is my friend's friend. Her name's Angeliki and she's such an amazing woman. She is around 60 but really active, full of energy, friendly and really nice. She used to be a teacher for years and she's now as a social worker of Attila town which is just out of Athens. She's married with 2 kids and they all live away from home. She explained so much about the culture and life style of Greeks and life in and around Athens. However, for me, there was only one small problem - she drives a bit too fast but I never felt unsafe. She seems to know everywhere in Athens and I loved the sign on the back of her car - "Don't follow me, I'm lost too ".

She loves travelling and she has been to many places around the world. She is actually now in the Ukraine with her lovely daughter for a month. We were so lucky to meet her here. Without her, we couldn't have made it to the special hidden places like Marathon, her home town, Attila, and the top of the mountain where we could see the whole of Athens by night at 10pm. Then she took us to have ice cream by the Acropolis at 11pm. On the mountain near her house, we visited a monastery in a pretty impressive location. The priests we met were amazing people and really professional in the way they explained everything.

Thank you very much for all your great help, Angeliki. Meeting you was like a godsend that made our trip even more memorable and understanding about Greece and Greece's culture. I hope I can make another trip back here sometime in the future.

Holiday!!!!

Finally, I've arrived in Athens after a long flight. I really truly feel like I'm on holiday now but still don't really believe that I am in an amazingly beautiful country full of holy stories and history like Greece. I have tried to tell myself many times to take it easy and calm down but I am really excited.

My friends and I flew with Thai Airways and we stopped over at Bangkok airport for a couple of hours. This is the new airport and it's such a huge airport. We spent the time just wandering around the airport. The food on the first flight wasn't great but was actually better on the Bangkok-Athens sector. The wine was pretty awful though. Anyway, I am here now and have really started to enjoy my holiday. I will be writing all about it when I return to Hanoi.

A Walk in the Park

A walk in the park in Hanoi is not always the simple pleasure one would expect. Peace and quiet, a breath of fresh air, a dog chasing a tennis ball, a reader catching a chapter in their lunch hour – all normal activities I’ve witnessed in parks when I’ve been overseas.

Not so in Hanoi! In fact, the atmosphere and character of parks in the capital changes throughout the day. There seems to be a kind of a cycle of activity.

The early morning dark gives way to park attendants sweeping up any litter, perhaps moving on a few street people who spent the night under the stars. As dawn approaches, elderly people who can’t sleep start their early morning wander and the pace starts to hot up. Before long, sports equipment is in evidence, badminton nets are being erected and the players begin limbering up. The sun rises and its rays paint the trees green and the shuttlecock is suddenly much easier to see. Young teenage boys kick footballs, too. But the most frenetic action comes from the women in the park. Dozens, sometimes more than a hundred aerobics enthusiasts kick and wave to non-stop Asian dance music. In another quarter of the park, older women participate in a low impact version, waving hand fans to tai chi moves. The mornings in Hanoi’s parks amount to one big sports club.

As the traffic starts to jam on the adjacent streets, a more sedate atmosphere takes over the parks. The fitness fanatics take off for a bowl of noodle soup before their work day begins. Tea and fruit vendors set up their simple plastic stools as the heat begins to become a factor in the day. Hand fans start to wave again and the shade of the trees is the only place to be. Less strenuous pastimes like chess, cards, reading the newspaper and discussing the lottery results take over in the lead up to lunchtime. The quietest part of the park day occurs after lunch when everyone present has heavy eyelids. A few travelling vendors will attempt to get some shut-eye before setting off on their afternoon route. The park warden may not notice because he’s sleepy, too.

In the late afternoon, the sports nuts start to take over again. The park’s evening rush hour lasts longer as the sport is followed by the invasion of the evening walkers who lap the park until their dinner is settled. Then the lovers take over, wedged on park benches or parked motorbikes whispering and kissing until the girl’s curfew brings it to a premature end.

The park goes dark and dormant, ready for the cycle to begin again tomorrow

Storms

Heavy rain and big storms in the last few weeks caused a big problem in northern Viet Nam especially around Lao Cai, which is the gateway to Sapa. Around 150 people died, 81 people were injured and 45 people are still missing, including lots of children. The non-stop rain continued for a few days and caused transportation to the area to be cut off. Many villages were completely cut off because of the flood waters. In Hanoi, Noi Bai international airport was closed for hours as well as the same reason.

The government is trying to help people in these areas by sending lots of personnel, army and local staff to solve the problem as well as food, money and clothing. Many government companies actually cut a day's salary to help them. I hope the assistance is enough and that those people manage to get back on their feet again.

These kinds of disasters happen every year in many parts of Vietnam. I wish everyone was better prepared for them.

Holiday Visa

Finally, after a few days running around to make new passport, I've got my visa for Greece!! Oh my gosh, I am so excited about that and I also have the tickets now even though I had to pay almost $500 more due to crazy increases in taxes and petrol while I was going through the visa process.

Thank you so very much to the Greek Embassy and their great staff that helped me heaps during my visa application. I am sure I will have the best 5 week holiday in Greece. If anyone has some tips on cheap accommodation and good places especially off the main tourist trail in Greece, please leave a comment. I would appreciate it.

Heneiken Beer

I love Saigon beer and Hanoi beer also Halida and Tiger draft. Any beer really! It was recently reported by Vietnam News Daily that, a small piece of a clothes hanger was found inside a bottle of Heneiken beer. This beer was brewed at the Ha Tay brewery company, which is 100% invested by a foreign company from Singapore. They also make Tiger and Anchor beer.

(This is not my photo )

What would happen if someone swallowed that piece of plastic. It'd choke you easily. Do you think we should keep drinking their products? I am a bit worried now.

Britney Spears

I don't know if Britney Spears is still alive or if she's passed away but in Vietnam, her gravestone has been on display in Hanoi's Old Quarter for years. She has had so many scandals related to her personal life and in her career that it makes me wonder if this has had influence on her downfall.

Interesting, too, that the Virgin Mary is prominent alongside Britney. She surely must have given up on her by now?

If anyone's heard about her lastest news, please stop by because I am really concerned.

Greece Visa

Holiday is coming and I am so excited about that. I have been planning this trip for quite awhile and Greece is my next destination. I went to the Greek Embassy this morning to apply for my visa. I am a bit worried even though I shouldn't be.

I met a Vietnamese member of the embassy staff and she's a really nice woman. She showed me how to prepare all of the papers and introduced me to the visa officer. I have to wait for a few days before they call me for an interview. I hope everything goes well and they will accept my visa. Wish me luck !!!

Adapting to Hanoi’s Summer

Summer is well and truly here. You can hear the cicadas in the trees. Along most of the streets in Hanoi these days, you can see the beautiful Flamboyant flowers. The hand fans are waving and the storm clouds are threatening. The temperature is on the rise forcing Hanoians to the lakesides and the streets in the evenings trying to get some breeze. Young boys drive their motorbikes around to have a good look at girls. Ice cream and sugarcane juice outlets are doing a roaring trade.

It’s all about staying cool in the brutal Hanoi summer. While the red and purple flowers make Hanoi look beautiful and signal the beginning of the school holidays, it is also a sign that it’s time to adapt. There will be no more cool days until October. One of the most noticeable ways that Hanoians adapt is in the wardrobe department and that doesn’t mean they wear less clothes. They wear more! Avoiding the searing sunshine is a priority, especially for the local women. A range of uniquely designed shirts which tie around the head have been all the rage these past few summers. Long gloves and the newly invented helmet rings complete the look.

Driving habits change, too. Motorcyclists do not stop at the traffic lights but instead 25 or 50 metres back from them – under the shade of a tree. It seems that half a minute stopped still in the open sun is too much to bear. At other times, motorbikers compete to pull up in the shade of a truck or bus. Motorbike parking attendants, in some locations, cover the seats of the bikes to protect them from the sun and their owners from a nasty burn.

Finding a breeze on a hot still night requires inside knowledge or an observant eye. Between Truc Bach and West Lake is an all too obvious one, with hundreds of couples getting in their good night kiss in the subtle wind. The breeze from the Red River can be experienced by hanging in the stop zones on Long Bien bridge. The bases of tall buildings like the Sofitel Plaza and by the waterworks on the dyke road are two other favourites.

A tumbler or two of bia hoi (draught beer) or mia da (sugar cane juice with ice) will give an instantaneous chill.

If all else fails, seek air-conditioned comfort!

Weekend at Cua Lo

Last weekend, I joined my friends from the Sofitel Plaza Hotel on their staff trip to Cua Lo. It was a fun trip organized quite well by the Oriental tour company. The journey was a bit too long for my liking, taking 8 hours by bus on the way and 9 hours on return due to the crazy traffic on the highway. Besides a small problem with the servise at the hotel, we all had such a great time, swimming, walking along the beach and enjoying the fresh seafood. Having a beer and a massage on the beach is hard to beat.

Cua Lo Beach is just an average beach. It doesn't have the whitest sand and the strong wing could blow anything away even your swimming costume. After 10 mintues lying on the chair, my body was covered with sand and dust plus over 20 sellers crowding around to sell their products, from fresh seafood to massage. I wonder why there are so many of them allowed to do business on the beach. Almost half of them are kids. These kids should be at school studying, not working on the beach selling eggs, peanuts and massage. Mosts of the people working at Cua Lo are from the provinces around Nghe An Province. I suppose it is an acceptable job with a reasonable income that they can cover their daily life and help their families.

In the main street, there are too many hotels around for such a small town. Difference prices are charged during the weekend and special holidays from early in the week because most Hanoians come here for weekend breaks. In fact, in the summer holidays, there are so many people on the beach it is difficult to relax. I liked the seafood market in the town as things are really well organized, there is a great atmosphere and the people there were friendly, insisting that i take their photograph.

We went to Uncle Ho's home town for a short visit. I learned a lot from this visit and had heard heaps about it. His family lived in such a simple house, much like other families did and thanks to the local tour guide, who told us about the history and the life conditions in the old days.

Cua Lo people are generally very friendly and sweet. I'm not sure but maybe the financial pressure of living in this poor province is turning them into very commercial people. Buying things here requires you to bargain harder than other places and they have two different prices. There seems to be a price for right weight scale and the cheating scale. I hate this and I shouted at a lady once as I paid more than my friend but had 200 grams of dried seafood.

Thinking about the beach and considering the distance from Hanoi, Cua Lo is a bit too far for a weekend break. But...been there, done that!

Lotus Flower

Summer is the lotus season in Hanoi, the best and the most beautiful flower. Lotus mainly grow in Hanoi, in the West Lake area. The early morning is the perfect time to go there to take photographs and buy lotuses.

There are lots of people trading lotuses around Hanoi. Unfortunately, once the flowers are cut, they don't last long unless they are in an air-conditioned environment. Fortunately, they are dirt cheap right now.

Vietnamese Food Show

Here is the show that I worked on with Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie.

Once again, thanks to Rob and Tom for giving me a chance to work with a great professional team. I learned alot.

Going Bowling

My friends invited me to join in a ten-pin bowling day yesterday at Star Bowl. It was great fun with many stupid uncordinated bowls thrwon by me down the gutters at the side. I was a bit drunk after a few beers and unfortunately my bowling skills didn't improve!

I thought I was destined to be last! We had a few laughs, especially when the ball didn't exactly roll but instead bounced along the lane. I was hopeless today, I swear! Sometimes you see some funny sights. There was an older man playing next to our lane and he seemed very professional and he has his own shoes and gloves and ball. He played really badly but he had a bit of a bad attitude so I accidentally on purpose took his ball and bowled it down the alley just for a laugh. I couldn't help it!

We only paid 110,oooVnd each for 2 games and the shoe hire. If you forget your socks, they'll sell you a pair for 5000VND. The last time we played, if you forgot your socks, you had to hire a pair which had been worn (and not washed)... so that's an improvement!

Good fun! A good day had by all!

Helmets in Hanoi

It seems so funny to be writing about helmets again just six months after their introduction into law. Some interesting trends have developed . I want to talk about the modern helmet that Vietnamese designed from the origional to a new style as cap, some of them look like a bowl and some other with really wierd style with variety of colors.

It maybe rumour but I think it's going to happen that the government will not allow the modern style of helmet and some not qualify. As many magazines has mentioned in newspaper that only around 30% helmet that secure and on standard in the whole Vietnam. It's truly dangerous if you think about in that 70% of bad quality helmet would kill many people? Another word, that most people in Hanoi love fashion and they don't really care about their lives and as some of my friends told me that wearing the origional helmet style which may turn they look silly and ruin their hair styles. Some people don't want to spend lots of money on helmet because they think they will not catch any accidents. They wear the helmet just to complete their duties on the road which is a really silly idea. Those helmets aren't cheap at all but some chinese helmets are dirt cheap around $3. I don't think that is a good idea but my thinking is not the same as other people thinking as they more concern about their look then their future.

Lots of people wearing helmets without tide the strap and I saw many helmets flowing in the air or fall on the street and also lots of people die because of the same reason or bad quality helmets. Think about our great future and it's truly worth to buy a good helmet for our own secure.

Coriander Restaurant

Do you like Thai restaurants? It's a bit hard to decide which Thai restaurant to go to in Ho Chi Minh as there are so many to choose from. My friends told me about the Coriander Restaurant in the back packer area in Bui Vien street. This is a small and simple restaurant like others in this area. When choosing where to sit, there are three options that you can choose: the second floor, the first floor or the back room. I love the back room because it's very simple, traditional seating on floor cushions and nice Thai paintings on the walls.

The menu highlight was Pad Thai, great Thai green papaya salad and you cannot miss the Thai green chicken curry. Take care though, as I was nearly crying when I finished the curry because I forgot to tell the waitress to make it mild.

Beside the Thai menu items, they also have some other Vietnamese and Western dishes and imported Thai drinks. The food is presented carefully and really tasty with big serves and quite cheap compared to other Thai restaurants in town that I've been to. I recommend this one!

Coriander restaurant
185 Bui Vien, District 1
Telephone 84.8.8371311
Mobile: 0909304814
Ho Chi Minh City

Hanoi Summer

Summer in Hanoi is coming bringing with it a variety of fantastic colour in the form of flowers. The temperature is also on the rise especially in the noon time on the motorbike with a heavy helmet on. Damn hot!

Wandering around Hoan Kiem lake on these days reveals the beauty of the city. The mixture of red, purple, white and green colors in the landscape makes the lake like a beautiful painting. That's why people love Hanoi so much.

Hanoians are sitting around Truc Bach lake, too, drinking and eating til late at night during summer. Finding a cool breeze is a priority and the lakeside is a good bet. Sometimes though, the street police men come and most street businesses disappear, leaving customers standing with their plates or glasses. Once the police are gone, everything returns to normal. It's a funny scene!

Van Hai Resort

Just by chance rather than good planning, my friends and I got the last available booking at Van Hai Resort which is located on a wild hidden beach on Quan Lan Island. The recent public holidays joined to the weekend created the perfect opportunity for a break from life in the chaotic capital. And the atmosphere on Quan Lan Island is about as relaxing as you’ll get. The simple accommodation offered by the Van Hai Resort was fitting too.

With rooms in stilt houses looking through the conifer trees and down the sand dunes onto the sea, we settled down for a five day stay. The cold shower bathrooms and fan rooms may not be everyone’s cup of tea but the sheets and towels were replaced daily and the beer was delivered cold in a polystyrene box full of ice. We sat on our long balcony with our feet on the rails, beers in hand, forgetting the pressures of city life.

The complex is owned by Viglacera, a government owned company which makes porcelain basins and toilet bowls. Ironically, this company is also responsible for the sand mining one beach around from their resort! Mr. Ngoc, the deputy manager, says the resort has recently been renovated but has been operating for three years. The surrounding foreshore is largely untouched and uninhabited – no more resorts on the drawing boards as yet, which is a good thing.

The only criticism is the difficulty getting fed. There are several little stalls run by local women within the resort grounds but there’s not much on offer apart from steamed squid, grilled dried squid and instant noodles with egg. There is a restaurant, too – though it has no menus and, anything that can be eaten there needs to be ordered in advance in the morning at highly inflated prices. One night, we had a set menu meal there, the dessert for which was one orange on a plate to be split between six people! Go to town for meals is the lesson here!

But we were not there for the food. As an escape, to see a bit of my country where development is happening slowly, to be the only one walking along the entire beach – these are the reasons to visit Quan Lan Island. And, with sunrise views over the sea, Van Hai Resort is the accommodation of choice.

Van Hai Resort
Son Hao - Quan Lan
Van Don - Quang Ninh
Tel : (84).(33).877316

Quan Lan Island

Quan Lan Island is ‘coming out’ as a holiday destination for both local and western tourists. Though still not on the typical tourist itinerary, the island is situated in Bai Tu Long Bay in the Van Don District of Quang Ninh Province, home also to the world famous Halong Bay. With an area of 11 square kms and around 6000 local residents, it is worth visiting for its beautiful white sand beaches and lush green countryside. Mass tourism is yet to make an impression here, which is another bonus. This is probably because Quan Lan is not the easiest place to get to and involves some travel challenges.

The journey takes a full day of independent travelling, first by public bus from Gia Lam bus station in Hanoi to the ferry terminal in Hon Gai. This four hour trip is not for the faint-hearted as the moves of these bus drivers would not be out of place on an F1 race track – in fact, my friends and I abandoned the bus less than halfway to Haiphong after several near misses. I called for a private car from one of the roadside restaurants which did blow the budget a bit but we wanted to arrive alive! From the ferry terminal, it’s a further four hours on an overcrowded boat. So it might sound like a horror trip but it's truly worth that much travel time to reach this great island.

Five years ago on my first trip here, in a week I only saw two other tourists. I had to order my meals in advance and rent one of the local’s motorbikes to get around. Since then, guest houses have tripled in price and, like in other tourist spots, the owners make heaps of money on national holidays and long weekends by charging unbelievably high rates for quite basic rooms. Some charge 400,000Vnd for a double room with a fan or 600,000Vnd with air-conditioning, keeping in mind that electricity is a new commodity on the island only supplied from 6 pm to 11 pm. If you are lucky and the guesthouse has its own generator, you will be supplied with power overnight. These days, food is served by some small restaurants and guest houses though menus do not exist and what you eat depends on what came over on the ferry and what last night’s catch was. Asking the price before ordering is necessary if you don’t want to run out of money, which we nearly did! Some restaurants take advantage of the isolation of the island to charge wildly inflated prices. I had to bargain for every single dish which is not much fun. Compared to five years ago, the residents of the island are more commercially-minded. I can understand that they want to raise their standard of living but it made me angry some times. When I questioned one of the local business owners about the obvious changes in the cost of everything, he said that “five years ago we were dumb.”

The one-road village of Quan Lan has changed quite a bit with many new houses beside the few remaining traditional ones. A wander through the narrow alleys reveals some century old scenes of rural life, though; cottage gardens, courtyards spread with drying food produce, women hand-washing clothes and children playing with stones and sticks. Almost every single house has a dog or two, which are not really aggressive but they do tend to bark during the night and sleep during the day!

Outside of the town, renting a motorbike or bicycle is the preferred option although there are dozens of xe lam (tuk tuk) drivers roaming the streets. This form of transport is quite expensive for tourists and, again, requires hard negotiation. We had to pay 100,000Vnd for a seven kilometre round trip, while motorbikes and bikes can be rented for 100,000Vnd and 50,000Vnd per day, respectively, plus petrol.

So, with the wind in our hair and a beach in our sights, we toured through the stunning green fields of young peanut plants and rice. A few days spent on one of the islands isolated beaches is a million miles away from the chaos of Hanoi and at least a few kilometres away from the negotiation for our evening meal. That’s the great attraction of Quan Lan Island.

Quan Lan Island
Bai Tu Long
Quang Ninh Province