Hue

I like the central coast city of Hue and have been there many times over the years. After a four year gap, I recently visited this charming city again and definitely got my fill of Hue food. We enjoyed very much our stay with La Residence Hotel, fabulously located on the river and within easy walking distance of lots of great street foo

We walked along the Perfume River/ Sông Hương to have breakfast, starting with Bún Hến (clam noodles) and Cơm Hến (clam rice) at 2 Trương Định St. The vendors were pretty funny when it came to bill time. There was quite a long conversation before they decided to charge us 20,000VND - $1 per bowl. I have no problem at all with the price but I did realise that the Hue locals were only charged half what we payed. I said I'm Vietnamese too, you know :). I suggested to her that if she was poor, she should ask me and other people, they probably wouldn't mind donating or loaning her some but cheating is not a good way to do busines

Further along the road, we dropped into two different coffee places where we paid just 7.000VND (35c). It was not the best coffee but it was nice to be treated as a Vietnamese again :). After getting our caffeine hit, we headed to hue's main market, the Dong Ba Market just over the Trang Tien Bridge. As we headed across, I saw a middle aged woman walking along selling bean curd drink. I ordered two bowls and I was ripped off again. I was so upset but just gave her my money and walked away. It seems that Hue people have changed so much, only thinking about instant cash and taking advantage of tourists as much as possible. I felt sad more than angry with them. I've chatted with friends since and they all had similar stories when they visited Hue. Some are even refusing to return, which is a pity!

Anyway, things improved after that. The highlight of my short vacation was the Bún Mắm Nêm from an old lady who has been sitting outside 15 Phan Đăng Lưu St for more than 30 years. It's only 15,000VND (75c) but it was so satisfying after a long walk around the fascinating Đông Ba Market. I have to say that the noodles were really spicy; I was sweating and tears were running from my eyes by the time I'd finished my bowl of noodles. It was fantastic! A second highlight was Huyen Anh restaurant, where they serve grilled beef with noodles and herbs. It was so yummy

Later in the evenings, we normally headed out for supper, too. Two snacks I was really impressed with were Banh Ep (a rice pancake with egg, served with green mango and herbs) and Bang Trang Trung (a crunchy rice cracker with egg, pate, potato and herbs). Of course, I slept very well at night after eating so much each day.

 

By the end of the trip, I'd completely forgotten about getting ripped off. But one thing I have yet to discover in Hue is really good Bun Bo Hue. We had a couple of bowls but I honestly don't think they were as good as what I've had in Hoi An or Nha Trang. When I go back, I'm going to do more research on that one.

 

 

 

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BBQ Wings !!!!

In Vietnam, we eat almost every part of the animal. Chicken is no exception, with the organs a regular part of pho ga at many establishments. In the Old Quarter's Ngo Gach St, there are several restaurants specialising in barbeque chicken, wings and feet. The place at 21 Ngo Gach, which is a coca-cola outlet by day, is called Tuan - Duc and is a place that my friends and I have been eating at for 10 years. The difference between this place and other similar places in town, the popular ones in Le Truc, too, is that they serve seasonal side dishes like young mango pickle, young morning glory pickle and jicama. Most of these kinds of chicken vendors in Hanoi marinate their chicken in a mixture containing honey. Here it is the same, though the unique fruity dipping sauce of chilli and cumquat also sets them apart.

The owner is a funny old skinny man whose his son is a younger version of the same. The wife is a bit of a grumpy control freak and usually shouts orders at the young team of helpers. There is always a funny thing to see or a story to hear at this shop.

The chickens are sourced from a farmer in the countryside not far from Hanoi, and the owner tells us the chickens are "happy chickens", which I think means that they are free range.

But back to the parts of the bird. When I go with my Vietnamese friends to this place, we love to eat the chicken feet as well as the wings but my western friends are more keen on the wings because they have more meat compared to the feet which only have skin. In Vietnam eating culture, when we drink beer we love to chew on something and chicken feet are a popular choice.

Also available at this place is grilled bread rolls with honey, very tasty but very filling. The other good thing about this shop is that the beer is always served cold and the price is fixed for tourists and locals alike. Ga Nuong: 21 Ngo Gach Street Hanoi

Steamed Rice with Salt and Sesame/ Com Nam Muoi Vung

I always go to my favorite Cafe Nang for coffee after lunch or sometimes after breakfast with my good friends. Last week, I saw a woman carrying her baskets past the shop. Some women inside the cafe called her in and bought some small packages wrapped in paper. I wondered what was inside the paper.

The owner of the Cafe Nang told me it was called Com Nam Muoi Vung / Steamed Rice with salt and sesame. I've actually eaten these before but most of the time my friends put them on plates and also my mother used to put them into a bowl for me to take to school.

I love this rice cake very much and I ate them all in one go. The lady in the shop told me that this dish was eaten by poor people in the past and that it's also a popular snack to pack on day trips to pagodas in the countryside. I'll definitely be up for another serve at only 4000 dong/serve.

Heavy Snack

My friends usually go out in the evening after their dinner for a snack and a chat. Last week, they invited me out for Nem Chua Ran - deep fried fermented pork in Tam Thuong Lane. There are lots of small shops selling this snack around Hanoi but it seems the most popular area is in Tam Thuong lane in the middle of Hang Bong street.

We ordered one serve which included Nem Ran, mangos, cucumbers and also french fries. Beside these snacks, they also serve different kinds of grilled dried fish and dried squid. Dry seafood doesn't exactly sound very nice but they are a perfect match for wine and beer, even hot and iced corn juice. All of these snacks use the same dipping sauce and condiments, salt and chilli or sweet chilly sauce. These two dipping sauces sound boring but they really work with these dishes

It's a good snack for a change but you wouldn't want to eat it every day as it's quite high in fat. I am sure I will come back for more as it is quite cheap and something that you can dwell over for a long time for a good chat. Definitely worth exploring this little lane in the Old Quarter.

Thanh Son shop
Tam Thuong Lane

Hoi An

Sorry that I haven't updated my blog for a long time. It's been a combination of being busy and laziness. I was actually considering quitting blogging. After 10 days holiday in Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang, I decided to start blogging again as I have enough energy now to walk around, take some photos and learn more stories to tell you guys.

I went back to Hoi An with my friends for a break to escape Hanoi's awful spring drizzle and dull grey skies. We were greeted in Hoi An by stunning blue skies, a more than warm sun and a really nice hotel.

I spent a few hours relaxing by the hotel pool before hitting the shops. My friends hadn't been to Hoi An, so they were excited to see the tailors and lanterns. It was actually a nice time to be in Hoi An as there were not many tourists around. During our wanders, we passed a small pagoda in Tran Phu street where food was being served in the courtyard. What a fantastic atmosphere to enjoy one of Hoi An's specialties, chicken rice...and one of the local beers, LaRue.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find my old tailor after an hour walking around. I decided to stop at Mac Khai, one of dozens of tailor shops around Hoi An. I had some shirts and shorts copied to be ready for the hot summer in Hanoi. Within 24 hours, my clothes were ready for pick-up, all perfectly sewn and made to order.

The next day we went to the beach for a short time to try some squid, prawns and scallops. They were good but dear compared to Nha Trang. I was looking forward to eating more seafood on my arrival home in Nha Trang. Seafood is always good and cheap down there and that's one of the things I miss most. My friends and I wanted to eat in the night food market which is always full of tourists. It is a good place to try some other local specialties, like the noodle dish cao lau. During our visit, we also ate at one of my favourites, the Bale Well restaurant, which I've written about before.

Really enjoyed the first leg of our trip.

Tra Chanh Iced Tea

It's hard to find a seat at Tra Chanh at noon on hot days, especially just after lunch. I'm not sure how it got to be so famous and well-patronised. Not that long ago, it was a standard kind of cafe. I finally got the chance to try this place recently.

Most people who come here are young office workers and students. They come here during their lunch breaks for a drink and something sweet before heading back to work. Many conversations take place, ranging from lottery results to political scandals. I was sitting there for an hour listening to the customers' stories, which made me laugh, particularly the ones between girls about their boyfriends. Many of the young male tea drinkers were telling thier bad luck stories about missing lottery numbers from the draw the night before. It really gives a sense of what is going on in the minds of young Hanoians.

Tra Chanh serves one of the most popular street drinks in the old quarter of Hanoi. There are few options to choose from iced tea, served with slices of lemon, to coffee to sweet comsomme of banana.

Tra Chanh - 31 Dao Duy Tu - Hanoi

Bale Well Restaurant

I dropped into BALE Well restaurant following a recommendation from a friend and I ended up really satisfied with a full stomach and a head full of information after a great chat with the very friendly owner, Mai. BALE Well gets its name from an ancient well famous in the Hoi An area. Many of Hoi An’s people use the water from this well because apparently there is no aluminium in it.

While Mai’s restaurant is not as old as this well left over from the Cham period, it has been operating for over 14 years, first in a tiny shed, and now in a modern two storey house. She started the business herself with four popular dishes that belong to the Hoi An region served with a very special dipping sauce made from soya beans and lots of different herbs and vegetables. She decided to maintain the simple setting she had at the beginning, of low plastic tables and chairs. During our chat, Mai told me that the reason she hasn’t changed the décor and style of her restaurant is because her customers (mostly locals) prefer it like it is. Also, it allows her to keep the price below many of the other restaurants in town, something her customers also appreciate, I’m sure.

On both my visits, Bale Well was full with a mixture of a few knowledgeable westerners and local customers. I realized that part of the attraction is the simple menu of four dishes: Banh Xeo(Rice pan cake), Thit nuong(grilled pork), Ram cuon(spring rolls), Nem nuong(grilled pork with sate). The other attraction is that prices are under 10,000Vnd per dish. It’s also possible to choose a set menu for only 50,000Vnd which is more than enough for one person and includes a bit of everything. My mate and I couldn’t finish it and we tried hard!

At the end of our meal, Mai showed me many messages from regular and former customers. That’s a good sign for her and shows that she runs the restaurant really well. Her staff is very friendly and helpful; the food is cheap and easy to order as well. In fact, you can let Mai do the ordering for you!

Set menu includes all 4 dishes: 50,000Vnd Thit Nuong - One stick grilled meat : 3000vnd Banh Xeo - Rice Pan Cake : 3000Vnd Ram Nuong - Spring rolls : 2000Vnd Nem nuong - Grilled pork with sate : 10,000Vnd for three sticks.

Open from 9.30am to 9.30pm
BALE Well Restaurant
45/51 Tran Hung Dao Street
Hoi An Town
(84)(510)864443

Noodle Soup In Saigon

Because I live In Hanoi, where pho comes from, eating noodles in Saigon is always an interesting experience. In Saigon nowadays, there are so many modern noodle shops which are nothing special but way out expensive, such as Pho 5 Sao , Pho 24 and Pho 2000. It's better to go to normal noodle soup stalls on the street or in the market where the atmosphere is from the past and the noodles are cheap. Real Vietnamese food is always found on the street even though it is sometimes not very comfortable to sit down on a low chair. But you can clearly see how the sellers prepare your bowl of noodles.

My breakfast of noodles was 5000Vnd noodle on the street near my hotel in Bui Vien street. It was super and the owner is a friendly lady who charges the same price for everyone, regardless of where the come from, foreigner or local.

If you want to try some other noodle soup, then go to Ben Thanh market where all types of great southern food is sold. It may a little bit expensive than on the street but there's no doubt about the quality. I always go to the Ben Thanh market whenever I am in Saigon.

Old Lady's Cake

Grilled green bean cake sounds a bit weird just because of the name. I don’t think I've ever heard of it before but an old lady in Hoi An is selling it right now and her cakes are pretty delicious. I asked her what the real name was because I didn’t believe what she told me. She told me that the grilled green bean cake included other ingredients like coconut, sugar, ginger and sweet potato. That sounds better, doesn't it? She opens from 3 to 5 in the afternoon.

I went back to her stall again to buy a few more but she smiled and told me whispering, sorry love, please come back tomorrow. She was so sweet.

Stir-Fried Noodles

It's impossible to talk about Hanoi without mentioning noodles. My favorite noodle dish in Hanoi is stir-fried noodles. This is very easy to make at home and easily found in the Old Quarter of Hanoi.

One of my favorite street shops is in Hang Thiec Street, and even though the owner was very friendly for the first two years she started ripping me off. I'd sent her a lot of customers, too. I told myself that I would not come back again and I didn't for a year. But the other day I forgot my promise and went back.

Both her noodle soup and stir-fried noodles are still great and her shop is even busier now which is good for her. I tried my favorite and she remembered that I don't eat tomato and I like fresh beanshoots which was nice. I finished my noodles and was charged the normal price like other people. I think she realized why I hadn't been there for such a long time. Thank you for not ripping me off again.

Grilled Intestine

Don't vomit when you see my photos in this post. I am sure someone may feel offended but you might be converted if you ever try it for once in your life. What I'm talking about is grilled pig intestine with sate', honey dipped in chilli sauce, served with some vegetables, cucumber and mint.

I tried this awsome dish at a great place last week with my friends and I realized that I will come back for more. This is a good dish to drink beer or a special soya milk wine with. Soya milk wine? Strange? Yes, this is the first time I've ever heard about it. I don't really know how it's made from basically I guess it is a mixture of soya milk and rice wine because it's a little bit sweet and easy to swallow. But do not drink too much because you will get drunk easily and it takes a long time to recover.

This place is owned by a middle-aged lady who is really friendly and smokes like a chimney. Her staff is also really nice. She told me that she opened this place last August and it's running really well. She only opens in the evening and most of her customers are local and young and they drink lots of soya milk wine but eat much less than me haha.

If still hungry, then order a few grilled bread rolls with honey which is hot and yummy, or some mango and other fresh fruit from the serving table.

You have to sit on the pavement, on low plastic chairs and tables right next to the railway bridge. The train goes through during the meal but that's adds to the atmosphere of this place.

33 Hang Giay Street

Fish Porridge

When Vietnamese talk about porridge, they usually mention chicken porridge first but I love fish porridge at this place in Hang Bong Street a lot. I used to go to this place regularly when I still stayed at my old house. Since I moved to West Lake I'd forgotten about this place.

Tonight, we went along Hang Bong street and I just turned my head and realized that my favorite place was just on my right hand side. I think I should let you guys know about this place which is quite cheap and really good fish porridge, fish cake and cuttle fish cake.

We had two hot fish porridges, a few fish cakes and a coke for only 45,000Vnd. This place is quite narrow and long, owned by a really short family, the eldest funny short guy takes care of the restaurant. He reminds me so much about a waiter from Luang Prabang. I talked to him tonight about his business, and he said "his family opened the restaurant 10 years ago, the best season is summer time, not winter because in summer, there are more people hanging around, that's why we open until the morning". It seems strange to eat porridge in summer but it's very satisfying.

Doan Xom
Tel: 04.8295281
213 Hang Bong Street
Ha Noi
24 hour service

Budget Lunch

I walked around the old quarter today trying to take some photos of a few interesting places. Time passed by so quickly and I started to feel so hungry. After ten minutes of wandering around trying to find somewhere which looks clean and cheap because I didn't plan to have lunch out today.

Finally, I went to a small shop which looked quite clean and there were lots of choices for food. I chose some eggs, some tiny shrimp paste, some stir fried vegetables, some stir fried spare ribs with sesame and some broth. I actually enjoyed my meal which cost only 20,000Vnd while speaking a few words with an old man from the countryside who drank a whole bottle of rice wine during his meal. He was hilarious with his strange accent and he invited me to drink wine with him, too. Oh my gosh, how can I keep up with him.

If you get lost in the Old Quarter at lunch time, go to 40 Cau Go street, cheap and good. Good luck!